Our eyes on London, aka the magician photographer, Leo Faria sent us a selection of the most beautiful and irreverent specs that were seen on the streets of London during the 2018 fashion week. We have already mentioned this, but its worth remembering: fashion is absolutely personal. Having said that, the best fashion and the best inspirations are on the streets, not on the runways.
The 70s vibe is on the streets, seen in the huge oval sunglasses and in the nicely colored clear lenses. If you, dear reader, are in fact a specs addict, you know better than anyone that the colored lens trend came out of Coachella and invaded the world, and this invasion seems to be ever lasting. So go on, choose a shape you love and put some fabulously colored lenses in.
The sharp cat-eyes will also have a VERY long life! However, the mini glasses that we saw with great intensity in NYC and the end of the year (in all famous people posts), seem to be slowly making their long awaited exit from the scene.
Next week we’ll go to Milan with Leo 🙂
Last night the iconic Grand Palais was night transformed into a decadent 80’s disco club, with neon lights and models dressed in enlarged shoulders, excessive use of textiles made into neck ornaments and embellished shoes. But the icing on the cake was the accessories. Military hats, leather boots, golden brooches and the eyewear! What a sight for sore eyes created in collaboration with Alain Mikli (pun intended).
Quick pause for a little contextualization. French designer Alain Mikli is one of the most important designers of his generation; many might argue that he is the one responsible for making eyewear sexy, elegant and an actual fashion accessory. As of the brand’s launch back in 1978 Mikli has always looked for interesting collaborations, has been known for provocative campaigns and has ‘dressed’ the likes of Grace Jones (all through the 80s). Most recently he has collaborated with Jeremy Scott in the creation of colourful specs that re-visit his iconic asymmetric shape from the (guess what) 80s.
Having said so, last night the world became aware of this new and very interesting collaboration. Drawing inspiration from the Vauthier runway and fashion photographers such as Helmut Newton and Guy Bourdin, the collection delivers the definition of the fiercely elegant modern Parisian women. The eyewear designer reimagined three signature styles for Vaulthier’s collection: Edwidge, Edwidge jeweled, Roselyne, and Nadége.
Inspired by the Mikli archive, Edwidge and Edwidge jeweled push boundaries with their shallow rectangular design. Mind you that small specs have been a trend since last year, it is safe to say that rectangular, straight 80s specs, are bound to make a huge come back this season. Roselyn also inspired by the Mikli archive, is an ultra-feminine oversized frame adorned in crystals. Nadége, a bid to Vauthier’s signature use of metal, with its bold and futuristic design is industrial and clean and yeat goes lovely with the couture looks.
The launch campaign for the eyewear collaboration was shot by Mert & Marcus and features none other than Kate Moss, who looks absolutely flawless in this 80’s universe of colourful lights and dense atmosphere. The collection will be available from April 2018.
“What’s important, when we start out, is not necessarily to understand but to love”
Jean Cocoteau’s statement stamped on a model’s collarbone opened Maria Grazia Chiuri’s ode to Surrealism at Dior’s Haute couture show, which aimed to weave the wonderfully weird twentieth-century movement into wearable, high art.
A show where the elegant guests were invited to partake in a delicate stroll of transparencies, veils, sexy nudity and a game of chiaroscuro, evidenced by the excessive use of black and white textiles. A lovely mascaraed show where sometime you see too much and sometimes you see very little. This same dialogue was used to create the most exquisite and elegant masks made of layers of structured tulle that cut out the model’s lovely graphic make up. Like dolls with large eyes the models were lined up to show the excessive Dior femininity. These masks, or as I call them, ‘eye-frames’ were created in collaboration with British milliner Stephen Jones, in honor of the masked ball Dior hosted last night for its clients.
“Because haute couture is a dream of fashion,” the designer stated in her show notes, “It’s a place where there are no limits to pushing boundaries and experimenting with technique, material and form.” And so she delivered this big communal dream with giant hands, torsos and eyes fluttering above the ground in a very Dali-esque vibe.
One of the most eye catching accessories this fashion week were the sunglasses shown at Maison Margiela’s SS18 show. Produced as part of an on-going and very successful collab with Mykita, the sunglasses are part of the new line ECHO.
Seen on the runway in the custom colour ways Blue and Dark Silver/White, the model MMECHO001 recalls the slim, classic cat-eye glasses favoured by Fifties film icons. With a rimless shield that extends beyond the visor-like top line, the MYLON model offers a strong, futuristic take on this vintage shape. Interestingly Mylon components are 3D printed adding even more twist to this vintage meets futurism vibe. A lightweight design piece full of attitude.
As Browne himself noted in an interview to WWD, all of it was a “Slim-Aarons-meets-David-Hockney-meets-fun-pool-party,” referencing the very languid vibe captured by Aarons famous photographs of C.Z. Guests at her house in Palm Beach. And it’s her pool Browne alluded to when putting together bright tiles for his show. This was the most plastic, accurately calculated and geometric pool party ever held. Mind you this was no splash and no hairs would be undone.
Trope l’oeil was center stage. What at first glance seemed to be suits, were in fact meticulously tailored one-piece dresses. Which takes me to the eyewear: Just as tricky as the haute couture-beach-fancy displayed. All models (this was ground breaking) sported AMAZINGLY tailored specs especially for his spring 2017 show. If the clothes were romantic and vintage inspired, the specs were not designed from the archives. The woman on the catwalk sported reflective sunglasses in all fun shapes directly referencing the ocean: Angelfish, Whale, Anchors, and Floats.
A real showstopper where masks meet fun and all intersect with technology at the center. Brown is known for working with rigor flat lenses, and here he did it again, adding fun cut outs and occasional paint over the frames to create the dialogue he expected.